First You Make a Roux... Gravy Making Hints and Tips
(9/4/01)
A list member lamented:
The Scullery Maid respectfully requests the assistance of any and all Cajun cooking experts in her search for roux nirvana. There's a couple of dishes I really like to make, that require the making of a roux, and this step causes me endless frustration and distress. I stir and stir and stir and nothing appears to be happening. It still tastes like flour and fat to me. Inevitably, I give up and pour in the liquid, turn up the heat, and lo and behold, the sauce thickens and smooths and all is well.
What the heck am I supposed to be looking for? How do I know when the thing's cooked out? Is there some genetic knowledge that I am lacking, being a New England girl with not a drop of French blood? Or is it the frustration and distress that make it work?"
The Scullery Maid, who would still be stirring if she were a Taurid (vbeg)
I don't know, but it sounds like you're making gravy. We don't have any words that end in X in West Virginia.
With gravy, you get a different effect depending on how long you "fry" the flour before pouring in the rest of the liquid. Some folks like to put a lot of flour in and cook it a bit before thinning it for gravy (or *not* thinning it much at all), and some folks like to make a lumpier style gravy by doing the opposite.
Harry, who wears his gravy with a difference
I highly recommend reading the section on starches in sauces in Cookwise, by Corriher. Amazing chemistry.
She says that darker rouxs are more for flavor and lighter ones are better for thickening (has to do with the heat breaking down some of the starch into dextrins).
Sylvia, who favors adding hot liquid to a hot roux.
Is this a French roux you;re trying for, or a Cajun one? They start out the same (heat some fat, add some flour), but the Cajun ones cook over low heat for a long time till they brown nicely (or, if you're me, burn as soon as you turn your back). For the French ones (plain white roux used for making cream sauce, cheese sauces, thickening for all kinds of things), I cook it until it bubbles up all over and then settles down again. Doesn't take long. If you can get your hands on any of the Julia Child videos (our library has her How to Cook series), just watch her once, and you'll have it for life.
Debbie
I don't think roux is genetic, but seeing one made once does help. The biggest thing you need is patience, as I've always been told to keep stirring it so the flour won't burn. Being veggie, I usually use olive oil (sometimes butter) and it works really well. I use equal parts flour and oil, put it on medium heat, stir it for about forever (approximately 15 min at least) until it starts turning darker.
As has been said by others, the point of the roux is to cook the flour first and give it a stronger flavour. If you are impatient, you don't have to do it that way and you'll still have a good sauce, it just won't have that same flavour. (For many sauces I start with equal parts oil and flour and then mix in whatever other liquid, bring to a boil, etc, no worries about a roux.) For a low-fat, low-effort cheat, you can also spread a thin layer of flour onto a cookie sheet and toast it under the broiler for a few minutes until it starts to brown, then use that for the thickening. It isn't the exact same thing, but it will have a similar effect with less fat involved.
Cherry, native New Orleanian and not-quite-Cajun on my mother's step-grandfather's side ;)
What kind of pot are you using to cook your roux?
Should be very heavy, pref. cast iron, to distribute heat evenly.
Paul Prudhomme says that a Cajun roux cannot be rushed, unlike a classical white roux, it can take more than a half hour over a fairly low heat. The flour should be caramel brown, but not scorched. Its been a long time since I made one, but I do recall quite a bit of stirring, to prevent scorching.
Carolyn, thinking that gumbo might be a nice idea for the weekend.
Ditto on the old cast iron pot advice and use of
REAL fat.
I probably do it on a slightly higher heat than most, but I stir constantly - you're literally glued to the pot at this time, and it does take time. But don't stir too vigorously and splash the hot roux on your hand - that's a burn that'll last - I know.
The guy who taught me told stories of growing up in New Orleans, - how he and his siblings would take this opportunity to jump on the beds and otherwise cause mischief, because they knew their mother wouldn't stop stirring and spoil the roux. They could tell by the smell when it was time to stop roughhousing.
That's the other thing, when the roux is approaching doneness, you'll notice the toasty smell. It will be darkening and starting to thicken. When it's a nice toasty pecan color (I find the new penny color too light), stop - remove from heat. (When making gumbo, I pour it atop the chopped vegetables
in a nearby pot, and the hot roux starts cooking the veggies.)
QQQ - a Leo who can make a roux.
(9/5/01)
If you get a chance, the episode of Good Eats (Food TV) about gravy goes into roux quite a bit, and very understandably... There's a transcript of the episode here, which might help you out (though the video is very good):
http://www.goodeatsfanpage.com/Season1/GravyTranscript.htm
An excerpt from the white roux recipe from the show: "Heat fat or over medium high heat. Add flour all at once whisking vigorously. When mixture thins and starts to bubble, reduce heat to low and cut back on the whisking. Cook until you smell a toasty aroma then cook 2 minutes more, stirring occasionally. "
Basically, it looks like nothing happens for a long time, and then everything happens really fast... for white roux (maximum thickening power, not so much toasty flavor) it will only colour up a tiny bit.
-Ashley (who became the family gravy chef after watching that show, and buying a few more whisks)
California-born, English, no French blood either...
