Congee
Combined prep
and cooking time ~2 hours 30 minutes.
Congee is not considered a gourmet
food. It falls more into the category of comfort food for invalids as the
rice is cooked to the point of destruction, and is easily digestible. There
are few hard and fast rules, and probably as many congee recipes as cooks in
Southeast Asia. While there are a number of regional variations,
basically a congee is nothing more than a rice porridge made using a
meat or fish stock as a base instead of water, perfumed with appropriate
aromatics and a small amount of meat or fish for protein added back in after
the cooking is complete.
Traditional recipes usually start with the
preparation of the stock, which also yields the protein which will later be
reincorporated at the end of cooking. It don't usually follow the
traditional method for several reasons. Most call for simmering the meats
for several hours, and boiling tends to change the flavor of meats,
particularly chicken. Boiling also alters the texture of meat, and I don't
think for the better. Also, the traditional approach turns the preparation,
which already requires quite a bit of attention over the last half hour
to forty-five minutes, into an all day multi-pot affair.
So, here is my
quick and dirty recipe:
Bring six to eight cups of chicken stock, preferably
your own homemade from the freezer, to a boil. When the stock reaches a
boil, add three skinless half chicken breast fillets. Immediately reduce the
heat and poach the chicken breasts for fifteen to twenty minutes regulating
the temperature so that the poaching bath remains between 160°F and 180°F.
At the end of the poaching time remove and reserve the chicken. To
the poaching stock add 1/2 tsp. salt. 3 or more Tbsp. rice wine. (left
over saki is fine) 3 slices of fresh ginger cut 1/4" thick (or 3/4 tsp
ground dried ginger) 3 to 4 green onions sliced in 1/8" rings, or 1/2 well
washed leek. With either the onions or the leeks you can include the soft
green tops. Finally add one cup of rinsed and well drained long grain white
rice. Cover the pot and bring it slowly to the gentlest possible simmer
allowing it to cook for 1-1/2 to 1-3/4 hours. DO NOT allow this to boil!
During the last 1/2 hour to 45 minutes you will need to stir the pot fairly
constantly or the rice will burn and stick on the bottom. We are not making
nice fluffy rice here. We are making an aromatic porridge that should be the
consistency of oatmeal when finished.
While the rice is cooking, take
one of the half breasts and cut it into 1/4 to 1/2" die. This will be
blended back into the rice mixture once cooking is complete. Refrigerate and
reserve the other two half breasts for chicken salad or other poached
chicken recipes.
At the end of cooking, stir the diced chicken back into
the congee. Chicken congee should be served hot, and may be garnished with
one of more of the following: fresh grated ginger, sliced green onions,
chopped cilantro or sesame oil.
Congees can also be made using
leftover cooked beef, pork or even firm fleshed fish instead of poached
chicken, and can also be a way to use up leftover vegetables. The cooking
stock for the rice, and the aromatics added, though, should be selected to
compliment the flavor of the meat or fish as it was originally prepared, as
should the garnish. Proportions are not critical except for the rice to
stock. Too little rice and you wind up with gruel, too much rice, or too
much heat, and the mass in the pot can solidify. 1 cup rice to 6 to 8 cups
of stock is, however, a pretty safe ratio.
Randall
(3/10/09)